Wine Grape Glossary
By Ray Johnson
The San Francisco
Chronicle Wine Competition
Awards Tasting is a great
opportunity to explore the
diverse tastes of California
wine. Every significant type
and style of wine and all of
the major wine-producing
regions will be represented.
If you have only recently
fallen in love with wine, you
might want to know what
flavors await you in more
than 1,000 medal-winning
wines. And if you’re an old
hand at wine tasting, maybe
you want to venture into
some fresh territory, seeking
out flavors beyond
Chardonnay and Merlot.
In either case, this
reference will help you to
anticipate the flavors of the
wines you’ll encounter, while
providing some clues to
foods that will enhance them
at your next dinner party.
Enjoy!
WHITES
Riesling. Sometimes
sweet and sometimes dry,
Riesling reminds me of
peaches and limes wrapped
in candy and a bouquet of
flowers. Often light in body,
this wine shines with the
diverse flavors in a nibble of
sushi.
Gewürztraminer. Like
Riesling, Gewürz, as it’s
often called, is made in both
dry and sweet styles. Often it
is full-bodied and reminds
me of the taste of fresh lychee
and the perfume of roses.
Sauvignon Blanc.
Frequently bone-dry,
Sauvignon can smell grassy
and citrussy. While many
wineries opt for the crisp and
fruit-driven style, others add
the full-flavored richness of
butter and oak. Many enjoy
the way the former expression
of Sauvignon can be a
foil to rich sauces based on
butter and cream.
Sémillon. Possessing an
almost unctuous texture, the
thick quality of Sémillon
makes a great partner to the
acidity of Sauvignon Blanc.
The two grapes often team
up to produce extraordinary
dessert wines that hit high
notes with fruit tarts and
crème caramel.
Chardonnay. Sometimes
tart like a green apple,
Chardonnay achieves great
popularity when it tastes of
warm-weather fruits like
pineapple and mango. With a
kiss of oak and a dab of
butter, the wine can become
quite rich and mouth filling.
Roussanne. This grape
from France’s Rhône Valley
produces aromatic wines
with refreshing acidity.
Marsanne. As Sémillon
adds weight to Sauvignon
Blanc, Marsanne is frequently
paired up with Roussanne to
make blended white wines in
the Rhône and California.
Wines made from Marsanne
can display aromas of nuts
and vegetables and show a
softer acidity than
Roussanne.
Viognier. This wine
combines exotic, perfumed
aromas with a scent of peaches
and cream. The alcohol level
is often as high or higher
than California Chardonnay,
creating a full flavored wine
that gives an impression of
sweetness.
Muscat. The grapy,
orange-blossom scent of
Muscat is easy to remember
after only one whiff. Most of
the wines range from sweet
to intensely sweet and make
a lovely complement to fresh
berries on a summer evening.
Chenin Blanc. Chenin
is frequently made in an
off-dry style, riding the cusp
between dry and sweet. With
aromas of melons, musk, and
honey, its acidity acts as the
balance to keep any sweetness
from tasting cloying.
Pinot Blanc. In Alsace,
they call it "Pinot Blanc," and
in Italy they call it “Pinot Bianco.” In California, much
of what we call Pinot Blanc is
actually the melon of the
Loire Valley. In any case,
styles range from delicate
Continued from W7
and rounded to rich
Chardonnay knock-offs.
Pinot Gris. As known as
“Pinot Grigio,” Pinot Gris
runs in style from light and
crisp to rich and spicy. Like
Riesling, it can be a perfect
accompaniment to Thai
cuisine.
Arneis. Anative of
Piedmont, Arneis is often
crisp with flavors of pears
and almonds.
REDS
Sangiovese. The star of
Chianti, Sangiovese can be
delicate in color, yet lively
with acidity, making it a
great partner with marinara
sauce. Many of Tuscany’s
greatest wines feature a
marriage of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon.
Barbera. Prized for its
acidity, Barbera often
reminds me of the brightness
of fresh blueberries with the
darkness of tar. The wines
can be quite deeply colored
and like Sangiovese, they
won’t give out in the presence
of tomatoes and spicy
sausage on a pizza.
Dolcetto. Like Barbera,
Dolcetto hails from Piedmont
in northwest Italy. Though
softer in acidity than Barbera,
it can be more tannic and
quite fruity.
Nebbiolo. This
grape produces deep and
demanding wines, with
full-on tannin, acid, and
general depth of flavor. The
wine can age for many years,
and the grape is one of the
hardest to grow.
Zinfandel. Zin shines in
so many of our viticultural
areas in California. It is made
light and fruity for pizza, as
well as big and alcoholic for
anything on the barbecue.
Petite Sirah. Certainly
not petite, this wine is often
the most dense, inky, and
tannic of our wines in
California. Many winemakers
blend it with Zinfandel to fill
out the palate, making for a
more complete package of
flavors.
Pinot Noir. Sometimes
Pinot captures the essence of
cherries and raspberries.
Winemakers often accent
these flavors with the brown
spice and vanilla of new oak
barrels. This often lighter bodied
wine has become the
most popular red wine to
pair with grilled salmon.
Pinot Meunier. It’s like
Pinot Noir, in a softer way.
Lots of Pinot Meunier is
grown in the north of France
to make Champagne, and a
few producers have
embraced it here as well.
Gamay. In France, it
produces juicy, fruity red
wines. The lightest versions
are often served chilled and
taken on picnics. Much of
our Gamay planted in
California is not Gamay at
all. Some has been found to
be a clone of Pinot Noir,
while others are actually
Valdiguié from Southwest
France.
Syrah. One of the hottest
wines today, Syrah’s flavors
range from earth and gamy
meat, to black pepper spice
and onward to jammy bombs
of fruit. This diversity of
flavors has delighted
consumers in Europe, with
wines ranging from light to
densely packed with flavor.
Grenache. Like Syrah,
Grenache was made famous
in France’s Rhône Valley,
particularly in Châteauneufdu-
Pape. This grape can add
alcohol as well as spiciness
and strawberry fruit, creating
many full-bodied Rhônestyle
blends.
Mourvèdre. Mourvèdre,
a.k.a. Mataro, is a grape that
adds the structure of acidity
and tannin to lots of Rhônestyle
blends. When bottled
solo, it makes a wine that
stands up well to meats
garnished in acidic sauces.
Carignane. This wine
can be quite dense, especially
from some of California’s old
plantings. Its tannins can take
time to tame. It pairs best, in
youth, with cheeses like
cheddar.
Cinsault. Amore
delicate horse in the Rhône
stable, this grape adds
complexity without weight to
the final blend.
Tempranillo. This star of
Spanish winemaking makes
long-lasting wines. The flavors
are hard to get a handle on,
as this wine has long been
associated with a sweetness
of oak flavors that can dominate
the fruit. Yet with roast
lamb, there may be no better
choice.
Cabernet Sauvignon. In
its greener versions, Cabernet
gives a sense of fresh tobacco.
In its ripest renditions, the
fruit flavors become almost
berry liqueur-like. The thick-skinned
berries of Cabernet
can produce tannic wines
that age well for years. In the
younger years, such tannic
wines cry out for protein-rich
foods to tame them.
Cabernet Franc. One of
Cabernet Sauvignon’s parents,
Cab Franc often has a
pleasant herbaceous quality
about it, with frequently
lower tannin and acids levels
than its progeny. This leaner
member of the family can
actually smell like pencil lead
and flowers.
Malbec. There’s loads of
Malbec planted in Argentina,
and we see it included in
many of the Bordeaux-style
blends of California. It can
taste softer and more round
than Cabernet Sauvignon.
Petit Verdot. Like Petite
Sirah, this wine has great
depth of coloration and can
be quite tannic. It often adds
extra substance to a
Bordeaux-style blend.
Merlot. The darling of
many red-wine drinkers,
Merlot’s supple tannins,
low acidity and plum-like
fruit make it easy to love and
easy to drink, in the absence
of food. More structured
versions are produced that
stand up straight and marry
well with food.
RAY JOHNSON,
Assistant Director of the San
Francisco Chronicle Wine
Competition, is the author of
“The Good Life Guide to
Enjoying Wine” and the editor
of WineSmarts.
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